Walking into winter in the Pacific Northwest, let alone in most cold climates around the world, is an intimidating endeavor for beekeepers. Even the very best of beekeepers, struggle to get through. Very few make it to March with the same number of hives that they entered into December with. Winter isn't the enemy, it's the environmental pressures and variables not only through the climate and moisture, but varroa among other pests, honey stores and humans. 
 

37.4% of [reported] managed hives did not survive Winter 2022

So what can we do to give our hives the best chance we can in Winter 2023? I've been spending a lot of time watching, listening and talking to beekeepers and am bringing to you my findings in hope that it will help you make an informed decision on what your "game plan" ultimately might look like. Remember, there are many different ways to reach the same result. So my words here on Winter, are not the ONLY WAY. Please use this as inspiration to do your own research and start your own conversations.  

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Let's talk about the two things that need to be happening RIGHT NOW.

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FEED, TREAT, REPEAT
Here's the deal, we are in a nectar dearth (except for the few areas with a knotweed flow) right now. You are most likely already feeling that pressure. Your bees are eating through the honey they gathered during the summer, boxes are getting lighter, bees are getting sassier, yellow jackets are arriving on the doorsteps of your hives. This time, right here, right now, is a pivotal moment in time, and your bees need you. 

What makes this moment so important is 1 of 2 things - the hive itself needs sufficient fat, minerals, pollen and honey to lay ENOUGH winter bees to keep the hive fed and brood warm through the winter. Throw a full pollen patty into your hives to stimulate the laying of winter bees and if you haven't already, start or switch over to 2:1 syrup (recipe)/get your candy boards (recipe) going. Since this is robbing season, be sure to have your entrance reducers on (flipped with the entrance UPWARD so that any dead bees do not block the entrance), and I would recommend removing your entrance feeders (they signal easy access for robbers) and instead opt for internal or enclosed hive top feeders that minimize spills and drips. Close upper entrances during a dearth to make it easier for bees to defend their hive.

 

The reason we switch to the 2:1 sugar ratio in Fall is to help our bees process. With the temperature dropping, this allows them to spend less energy processing their sugar/nectar into honey, because there is less water to dehydrate. I like to add Honeybee Healthy, and Apple Cider Vinegar to my syrup to support the gut biome of my bees. Just as in humans, the gut biome of bees is essential to their overall ability to fight disease. I found this article if you are interested in learning more about the microbiome of honeybees and why that is important. Gut Microbiota Structure differs between Honeybees in Winter and Summer.

Also, here is a PNW Specific Article "Feeding Fall Colonies" written by the esteemed Dewey Caron.

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2 of 2 - Varroa Destructor. Your bees are out looking for any and every ounce of usable sugar source to store for winter. They are robbing hives that are unhealthy, who have disease and mites. They are bringing those issues right on home. Your mite treatments need to be aggressive Your bees won't survive with a mite load growing over the winter. These days, most of us don't lose our bees to the cold, we are losing them to the mites and starvation (which actually is effected by your mite load). There are people who have bees that starved with a full deep of honey on top last winter. Those bees did not have enough healthy numbers to both keep the brood warm as well as feed themselves. I'd be curious to ask each of those people what their treatment approach was in the fall before entering winter.  

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Apistan Strips

Active Ingredient: Fluvalinate

Recommended Dosage: One strip for every five frames

Must be finished before the end of October, as it requires entry into the hives.

Apistan strips are a chemical method used to kill Varroa mites in honeybee hives. The active ingredient, 10% fluvalinate, works to disrupt the nervous system of the mites but has low toxicity to honeybees.

To use the Apistan strips, we recommend hanging one strip per five frames of bees. In the video, the upper and lower boxes each hold ten frames, so we added two strips to each. It is very important to use the full dose during treatment to avoid building up resistance to Apistan in the mite population.
 

Apiguard

Active Ingredient: Thymol

Recommended Dosage: Two treatments of one foil pack every two weeks

Must be finished before the end of October, as it requires entry into the hives.

Apiguard is a thymol-based treatment for Varroa mites, which is a component of botanical thyme oil. A full dose of Apiguard consists of one foil pack added to a hive for two weeks, which is then replaced with a second foil pack for an additional two weeks. In the video, you can see the Dadant Rim Spacer Kit set up that gives the bees plenty of room to access the treatment.
 

Mite Away Quick Strips

Active Ingredient: Formic acid

Recommended Dosage: One strip in the brood box for 10 days

Must be finished before the end of October, as it requires entry into the hives.

Mite Away Quick Strips are a formic acid treatment for Varroa mites designed to kill the mites under the brood cap where they reproduce. Therefore, it is important to place the strips at the top of the box with the brood in your hive.

To use Mite Away Quick Strips, place one treatment on top of the brood box for 10 days. At the end of the treatment period, remove and safely discard the strip.

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Oxalic Acid Dribble or Vapor
Active Ingredient: Oxalic acid
Recommended Dosage: One treatment every 4-5 days
Dribble must be finished before the end of October, as it requires entry into the hives.
Vapor you can commit to through the end of Fall, as it does not require entering the hives.
VAPOR REQUIRES A RESPIRATOR - NON-NEGOTIABLE

Oxalic Acid Vaporization is an ideal Fall/Winter treatment for honey bee colonies infested with the Varroa destructor ( mite. Varroa destructor decimates apiaries and threatens the food supply worldwide. OAV is most effective in a broodless colony when phoretic mites otherwise shelter in the capped cells of developing worker bees . Beekeepers employ different homespun regimens to resolve an infestation and treat their colonies a few times for a few weeks and hope for the best. OAV is proven to kill mites with minimal impact to a colony’s bee population, but many beekeepers have no systematic application schedule or definitive treatment endpoint. I personally use the Vaporizer, not the Wand, as the wand has more potential complications with possible burning of frames and more disruption to the bees because you are inserting the wand into the entrance. I drill a small hole into the back of my bottom deep, top center, and insert my vaporizer, and do the treatment without having to handle my hive. Be sure to clear out that hole every time before inserting the vaporizer, as the bees will propolize it. 

OA Dribble/Vapor Guide

OA Vapor Wand / OA Vaporizer

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MAKE A PLAN FOR OVER-WINTERING

So, now that we have the two foremost important actions that need to be handled immediately, shared with you. Let's open the next can 'o worms, shall we? Configuration of your hives, and getting ready to switch to cold, high winds. Smarter, not harder - I feel that Portland, OR based, Beeandbloom, did a great job in their article, which I have shared with you below, no need to reinvent the wheel.
 

Remove unnecessary space
Overwintering your bees in the smallest space possible by pulling off empty boxes (or top bars) will prevent heat diffusion, keeping the bees from expending unnecessary energy warming their cluster. This will also limit the space available to mice and other small critters looking for a warm place to crash.

Make sure the honey is in the right spot
We don’t recommend interfering with comb arrangement often, because the bees usually organize their brood nest and food stores exactly the way they need them. That said, sometimes things go sideways and might need some rearranging. In Langstroth and Warré hives, honey frames should be on either side and on top of the cluster. In a TBH, the honey bars should be to one side of the cluster. The idea is that the cluster should be able to move together in one direction to eat through the stores. You don’t want half of the cluster moving in one direction and the other half moving in the other!

Remove your queen excluders
If excluders are left in the hive, you run the risk of the queen being left behind as the cluster moves up in the honey stores. This will kill your queen (and your colony).

Combine weak colonies. If you wind up with two colonies that are too small to overwinter, consider combining them. Overwintering one hive is better than losing both! You can also combine a weaker colony with a strong one, but be sure that the colony isn’t weak due to mite overload or disease - you’d just be weakening your strong colony. Also, be sure that the stronger colony has enough food stores to take on the extra bodies - you don’t want to bolster a weak colony at the expense of a strong one. 
Pest Prevention

Entrance reducers and mouse guards should go on in the latter half of summer - right when populations are beginning to decline and honey stores are growing. Smaller entrances will keep out yellow jackets and thieving neighbors in the fall, and mice looking for a warm place to live in the winter. If your colony is weak, it’s good to close up the entrance as much as possible to give them the least amount of space to defend. It’s important to remember to check in on your hive entrances in the winter; dead bees may need to be cleared out periodically to allow bees to exit for cleansing flights when weather permits. 

Wet Bees are Dead Bees 

The need for extra insulation will vary by location. Portland [Washington] winters are more mild than Minnesota winters, but much colder than in San Diego. It’s a good idea to consult with beekeepers in your area to see what works best, but we will cover some general techniques.

Make sure your hive is water tight. Examine the roof and box sides, plugging up any cracks or holes that might let moisture or excessive cold air into the hive. If you’re using screened bottom boards, be sure to close them up or swap them out for solid boards.

Insulation Quilt Boxes are a good idea for any climate
The idea is pretty simple: you place a shallow box with a breathable bottom (i.e. canvas, burlap) filled with dry, organic material on top of the colony. These are standard on Warré hives, but I’ve seen them modified for Langstroth and Top Bar Hives, as well. These insulation boxes will keep heat in the hive and draw excess moisture out, both very important for winter months. [How to build a quilt box]

Think twice before wrapping your hives in beecozy or foam insulation, because it can be dangerous if done incorrectly. Wrapping often causes a build-up of moisture in the hive, which can freeze and kill the colony. A soggy hive environment is also at higher risk for mold. Instead, consider constructing a wooden “hive cozy” with dead space between the outer shell and the boxes. This would provide an added layer of insulation while maintaining breathability. Roofing tiles placed on top of the hive is an easy addition that can help soak up and retain heat on sunny days. 

Provide a windbreak.
If your hives are in a particularly windy location, a wind buffer will go a long way for temperature regulation and preventing the hives from being knocked over. Stacked hay bales make an excellent temporary wall. 

Move them inside a 3-sided structure
Beekeepers in harsh climates will sometimes move their hives into a shed or garage for the winter. If you go this route, make sure to move them after foraging is done for the season, so that foragers don’t get stuck at their original location. Be sure that they get moved out into the open with an open entrance so they can do cleansing flights on the warmest days. Placing the hives in three-sided structures (like a horse run-in) can provide extra shelter without the need to move them back and forth.